Fjädring ????

Tekniska frågor och svar om Corvetter 1984-1996
Torsten
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Har en 94a LT1 som jag tycker är lite väl låg framm...hur gör jag enklast för att höja den ca 30 mm.????? å en till ...tycker att bakfjädringen är lite mjuk i förhållande till framm ....kan man styva upp den bak på nått enkelt sätt ???? tacksam för svar .....
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Jake
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Börja med att byta dämpare runt om. det kommer troligtvis att höjja bilen och kanske få ordning på körkänslan i bakvagnen.. det är fjäderbyte bak som gäller.. och fram måste du lägga gummin i själva fjäderupphägningen.
Skriver för snabbt och är för lat för att korrektuläsa ;)
Dålig lack och stolt :D
Överladdad, E85

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Torsten
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Fjädring ????

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OK ....nu sitter det ställbara dämpare innifrån...bilen är inte på nått sätt gungig eller så ...känns stabil men tycker den niger lite mycket bak ibland .....märks mest om jag kör sakta ca 50 å det är lite stora långa gupp i vägen ....på motorväg märks inget .......framm tror jag den är sänkt .....min spoiler tar i ibland ......hur återställer jag detta ...vart sitter gummina du pratar om ??? Tackar för svar
zphinx
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Gummit som du skall sätta dit sitter på ovansidan av bladfjädringen. du får helt enkelt släppa på hela fjädern och lägga imellan en gummibit. Kan va lite pilligt att få bort. Men det går. =)

Jag tycker det låter märkligt att den skrapar i. Jag har endast en tunn gummibit i mellan så min går inte att sänka mera. Men det tar inte i för det. Visst kan det skrapa i om jag kör över en hög kant, men aldrig när jag kör.
Torsten
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Fjädring ????

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Nej den tar inte i vid vanlig körning på väg ....men vid alla vägbulor får jag ta det väldigt lugnt .......jämfört med kort på andra bilar å min måste va sänkt .....får krypa under å kolla hur det ser ut
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Jake
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Min var toklååg tidigare. fick knappt in handflatan mellan däcket skärmkanten. bytte dämpare inte för att jag tyckte den var svajjig utan för att jag fick ett löjligt bra pris :).. vips var bilen 25mm högre.

det är rätt mycket jobb att höjja fram.. ett enkelt tips är att du plockat bort undre delen av läppen.
Skriver för snabbt och är för lat för att korrektuläsa ;)
Dålig lack och stolt :D
Överladdad, E85

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Ragge
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Jag har plockat bort den undre läppen. Man ryser ju i hela kroppen när det skrapar i på alla fartgupp som finns i stan. Det hjälpte i alla fall för mig.
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Torsten
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Jo låg är den ..å skrapad spoiler är det .....vill ju sätta dit den nya jag köpt på Ecklers ....skall ta ett kort så ser ni bättre ......har ingen speciell lust att byta dämpare i onödan ju ....har för mig att FX3 dämparna kostar en förmögenhet .......
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Hot Rod
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Finns väl inte en Corvette utan skrapad fram-spoiler... Min är inte sänkt o fram tar det i överallt...

Dessa plast-bitar (i 3 delar) finns i 2 höjder.

FX3-dämpare är svindyra men köp dom i alla fall om du ska byta. Känns heltönigt när dessa är borta ("förstörd" Vette) för att ägaren inte fattat vad han köpt / alt är för snål för att köpa rätt grejer.

Jake: Jag vill inte bråka med dig men det är omöjligt (?) att bilen blir 25 mm högre pga stötdämpar-byte.

PS: Detta måste var första tråden om att höja en Vette...
1971 Coupe, 496, 4-vxl.
1996 Coupe, LT4, 6-vxl, J55-bromsar, 285/35-18 på svarta C5 Z06-fälgar.
Tidigare: 1992 Coupe LT1, aut, FX3-dämpare, J55-bromsar, 275/40-17.
1987 Coupe TPI, 4+3, 275/35-17 och 315/35-17. 1989 Coupe TPI, 6-vxl.
Torsten
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(skratt ) Jo det är nog så .....de flesta vill nog sänka ju .....har hört talas om att man kan testa dämparna när dom sitter på ???? får kolla på nätet om det finns nånn i GBG som gör det ....funderar på om man inte kan lägga under nått gummi i ytterändarna på bladfjädern .......
Torsten
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Har testat nu i några dar å det verkar som mina FX dämpare funkar ....blir en betydlig skillnad mellan lägsta å hårdaste..........kan man renovera dom själv tro ??? det kanske bara är lite O-ringar ju .....nån som vet ????
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Hot Rod
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Om du märker ordentlig skillnad på mjukaste o hårdaste så kanske de fungerar...

Hittade detta http://captainzcnc.com/index.html

Fanns en artikel om FX3 på Corvette Actioncenter men nu är den borta? Jag har den i min dator så jag postar den här, ett långt inlägg...


1989 - 1995: Technical Article: FX3 Selective Ride Control


FX3 Selective Ride Control Shock Absorbers - Part I
A look at the RPO FX3 Selective Ride Control system on 89-95 Corvettes. The "SRC" article is by Hib Halverson, a technical writer and CAC member who, at one time or another in the last 20-years, has worked for every Corvette magazine that is distributed nationally, including Corvette Quarterly, Vette and Corvette Fever. He is best-known in the Corvette community for the "Big-Block from Hell" and "Purple Project" series he's written for Vette Magazine.

Copyright June 3, 2000 Hib Halverson

Hi Vettenetters and Zroners- Some subscribers to these lists are aware that Bilstein Corporation of America offers a repair and revalving service for many of their shock absorber products including the ride-adaptive, Delco-Bilstein shocks used on 89-95s equipped with RPO FX3 Selective Ride Control (SRC).

For a period of time in 1998 and 1999, if you sent SRC shocks into Bilstein for revalving or repair and they found them leaking, the shocks sometimes could not be repaired and had to be replaced. This was caused by a long-standing, back-order of the SRC shock absorber piston rod assembly at Krupp-Bilstein in Germany, the only source for that part. The piston rod back order was finally filled earlier this spring and Bilstein North America now has them in stock.

This piston rod assembly is actually two shafts, one inside the other and is manufactured as a single unit by Bilstein in Germany. The outer shaft doubles as both the piston rod and the outer section of a sleeve valve that controls the flow of oil bypassed around the shock's main valve. The inner shaft is the other part of the valve. As the inner shaft rotates, the bypass valve opening varies. The top of the inner shaft is splined and engages the SRC electric actuators which, in turn, are operated by the SRC controller. To vary the bypass valve opening, the SRC actuator turns the inner shaft. The larger the bypass valve opening, the softer the shock valving and the smaller the opening, the more aggressive the shock valving.

There is a potential wear problem with this piston rod assembly. If the seal between the two shafts fails, the shock will begin to leak oil. If the actuator is attached, the leakage will appear to come from beneath the actuator. When the seal fails, the oil is forced up, through the space between the two shafts, and out the top of the shock through the small gap between the splined end of the inner shaft and the shoulder of the outer shaft. Any oil leakage out the top of the shock or, if the actuator is in place, from under the actuator is indicative of piston rod inner shaft seal failure. This type of leakage is not to be confused with the slight oil film the Service Manual says is permissible on the piston rod or on the sides of the shock absorber itself.

Cars with over 30,000 miles that have had frequent changes of the SRC selector switch and/or have had many ignition cycles will be most susceptible to shock leakage due to this seal failure. Whether or not the seal fails seems to be affected by how much valve movement there has been during the life of the shock. Every time an FX3 car is started, the SRC actuators index themselves by moving through their full travel then returning to the valve adjustment called for by the selector switch setting and vehicle speed. The more often the inner shaft is moved, the more likely there will be a problem with leakage.

The front shocks can be inspected for leakage when they are in place. If leakage has existed for some time, shock oil will be present inside the actuator retaining bracket at the very top of the shock, on upper shock mounts and, maybe, on the frame's upper, shock mounting bracket. The rear shocks must be removed for leakage inspection. Rear shock removal requires the rear actuators be separated from the shocks after they are unbolted but before separating them from the car. Any oil leakage from the top of the shock will be obvious once the shock is removed.

If you have SRC shocks that are leaking oil in the manner discussed above, they can be repaired. Bilstein has the parts in stock and the charge for repair is minimal compared to the price of new SRC shocks.

If you are an aggressive street driver, autocrosser or road racer, you can significantly improve the handling of your FX3/SRC equipped car by having Bilstein revalve your shocks. Several valving configurations are available including one that works well for 89-95s that are dual-purpose, street/track cars. The valving for all six-ranges is stiffened up with the low ranges changing only slightly, but the upper ranges becoming significantly stiffer. Additionally, the rear shocks get a substantial increase in rebound valving which helps the 92-95 ZR-1's tendency towards drop-throttle oversteer. This problem is caused by a combination of: high lateral acceleration, sudden forward weight transfer, 200 lbs more on the front end, soft spring rates and soft shocks. The approximately 50% more rebound valving Bilstein dials-in, resists the weight transfer and makes the car less susceptible to drop-throttle, oversteer.

My 95 had problems with leakage from the front shocks. I removed all four and sent them to Bilstein. Sure enough, the word came back that both the front shocks were low on oil and one of the fronts was almost dry. Since my shocks were there for repair, I had Bilstein revalve them, too, and I picked the street/track valving configuration.

The effect revalving the shocks had on my car's handling was outstanding. In the lower SRC ranges, the wheels seem better damped. The floating effect of the OE valving's soft rebound control is gone. I occasionally autocross my 95 and the upper SRC ranges are noticeably stiffer offering better control during aggressive maneuvering.

I recommend the Bilstein revalving of SRC shocks to anyone who drives an FX3-equipped car aggressively. The revalving is especially useful for 92-95 ZR-1s and 92-95 Z07s. For more information, contact Bill Hindorf at Bilstein North America, ph: 800-537-1085 . You also can write Bilstein at 8845 Rehco Rd., San Diego, CA 92121.

FX3 Selective Ride Control Shock Absorbers - Rear Suspension Bushings - Part II
Below, is a followup by Hib to Part I above...

Copyright June 8, 2000 Hib Halverson

Vettenetters, Zroners- Last week I started a thread on SRC.
I was amazed by the response and how widely that post has been circulated. Because of that, I'd like to expand on my original comments a bit.

First of all, my recommendations were specific to the 1992-95 iteration of SRC. The 1989-91 version is somewhat different, both in the shocks--they have no valving on the bypass circuit and I believe a larger (in degrees) valve movement--and the system may use a different controller. The revalving I discussed on my post of last week works well for 92-95 shocks used in street/track driving.

I have no experience with revalving the early shocks and anecdotal feedback regarding Bilstein revalved, 89-91 SRC shocks used with the OE controller seems a bit mixed. I need to develop additional information about this issue before I can discuss the early SRC shocks adequately.

Secondly, I got some questions about SRC shocks from a ride standpoint. Make no mistake, the Bilstein revalve of the SRC shocks does not enhance the car's ride. It's mainly a performance handling modification. If you do not regularly drive your FX3-equipped C4 in an aggressive manner on the street or you do not autocross/road race the car, you may not care for the rmore aggressive ride you get with the revised valving. If your FX3 car is driven in a normal manner on the street and a nice ride is an important consideration, don't have the shocks revalved. Now, if the shocks are leaking (as discussed previously in this thread) or are otherwise worn, Bilstein can rebuild the shocks and, usually, that will be less expensive then buying new ones. When you send the shocks in for rebuilding, just don't opt for the revalving.

Other rear suspension comments:
Yesterday I called Doug Rippie to discuss a new product development project Fluidyne High-Performance (the radiator people) have given me. In the process of discussing that, Doug commented about some past statements I've made on VN, ZR1N and Corvette Forum about the use of polyurethane suspension bushings in the rear arms of C4s.

Initially Doug disagreed with my contention that use of urethane in C4 rear control arms (both trailing and lateral) may actually degrade suspension action because they are so stiff that they can bind the suspension. To review, the C4 rear suspension geometry is such that, as the trailing and lateral arms move, they *also* rotate. Very stiff control arm bushings can resist or restrict this needed rotation. If that happens, as the suspension moves, it can partially bind. When the binding occurs, the effective wheel rate goes up making the suspension action non-linear. That can make the car twitchy and unpredictable.

Rippie pointed out that in the heyday of C4 Showroom Stock and production-based road racing in the mid-late-80s and early 90s, racers had success with use of urethane in the rear of C4s. I pointed out to Doug that some of these race cars had limited suspension travel and high roll stiffness such that the suspension might not move enough such that the binding would be a problem. I also pointed out that on many street driven cars and even those that are raced with stock suspension travel and roll stiffness levels, may see problems with binding, when the stock rubber bushings are replaced with urethane parts.

In the end Doug and I agreed that in situations where the rear suspension is basically stock, the use of polyurethane in the rear arms may degrade handling because of the binding problem, however, we also agreed that in race-only applications or street/track cars having rear suspension highly modified, ie: higher rate springs, bigger bars and lowered ride height/limited travel, the use of urethane might not be a problem and could be an advantage.

For borderline cases, if you want to use poly bushings, try them but do a lot of testing. If the car is twitchy or unpredictable in transient maneuvers and you can't find anything else wrong, take the urethane out and test again.

All that said, for race cars, the best way to go with an all-out racing C4 rear suspension is heim joints.
1971 Coupe, 496, 4-vxl.
1996 Coupe, LT4, 6-vxl, J55-bromsar, 285/35-18 på svarta C5 Z06-fälgar.
Tidigare: 1992 Coupe LT1, aut, FX3-dämpare, J55-bromsar, 275/40-17.
1987 Coupe TPI, 4+3, 275/35-17 och 315/35-17. 1989 Coupe TPI, 6-vxl.
Torsten
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Fjädring ????

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Tack för det ...skall plugga igenom texten lite senare ......det finns inga felindikationer på datan ännu ......så det verkar funka ......ser inget oljeläkage heller ......nästan sugen på att ta isär en å kolla lite .....
Torsten
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Fjädring ????

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Är FX 3 dämparna styrda av datorn något ?? menar om hastigheten på bilen ändrar justeringen på dämparna eller är det tre fasta lägen enbart ... ???? nån som vet ????????
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